Buyer’s guide

Choosing a 3D Printer in India

We build 3D printers, so treat this as what it is: our range, and an honest account of how to decide between machines like it. The six questions below settle most purchases, and three of them have nothing to do with the printer.

7 machinesDesigned & built in Bengaluru12-month warrantySince 2013
The Fracktal 3D printer range
2013Building printers since
7Machines in the range
12 moWarranty on every machine
FreeFracktory slicer
A decade in the field

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Deciding

Six Questions That Settle It

In the order that matters. Most people start at question five and regret it.

01 · What does the part have to survive?

PLA and PET-G need nothing special. ABS, ASA, PC, PC-ABS and PP need an enclosure or they warp and delaminate — and no amount of tuning substitutes for one. Answer this first and half the market disappears.

02 · How big is the biggest part?

Measure the largest thing you actually intend to print, add 20 %, and do not buy below it. Splitting and bonding a part is a tax you pay on every single build.

03 · How much of the week will it run?

A machine printing eight hours a week and one printing eighty are different purchases. Filament sensors, a door lock and a camera stop mattering at one and become the whole argument at the other.

04 · Who is going to run it?

A shared lab machine used by forty students wants a locked door, runout detection and a slicer with correct profiles already in it. A machine with one owner does not.

05 · What happens when it breaks?

Not if. A machine designed and built in India has spare parts a courier away and support in your time zone; an imported one has a shipping form and a currency conversion. This is the question people ask last and regret most.

06 · Only then: speed and resolution

Every current machine prints well. Headline speed and minimum layer height are the least discriminating numbers on the spec sheet, and the ones every brochure leads with.

The range

Which Fracktal, Side by Side

MachineBuild volumeMax nozzle tempEnclosedBest for
SnowflakeDesktop280 °CNoFirst machine, schools, prototyping in PLA and PET-G
Julia200×200×200 · 250×250×300 mm300 °COptionalLabs and classrooms that need remote printing and a camera
Dragon 400 / 500 / 700to 700×400×400 mmHigh-temp capableYes, passive heatedSpeed and size — up to 600 mm/s
Twin Dragonto 600×600×400 mmHigh-temp capableYesTwo materials at once, soluble supports, duplication
Volterra400×400×400 mm450 °CYes, 90 °C actively heatedPC, PA, PEKK-class and carbon-fibre composites
Apollo SLSPowder bedn/aEnclosed processComplex nylon parts with no supports at all
Material Dryer (MDS1)3 × 1 kg spoolsn/an/aAny of the above, running hygroscopic material
The range

Seven Machines, Made in Bengaluru

What we would say if we did not sell printers

Four Things Worth Knowing Before You Buy Anything

Open-material or do not buy it

A machine that only runs its manufacturer’s chipped spools is a subscription with a plastic case. Every machine we build is open-material.

Budget for a dryer with the printer

Nylon, PC, PC-ABS and PET-G all print worse wet, and ‘the printer is bad’ is usually ‘the filament is wet’. It is the cheapest upgrade available.

Check what the warranty covers, not how long it is

Twelve months on the machine is standard. Ask what happens to a hotend, a bed and a board inside it, and how long a replacement takes to arrive.

The slicer matters more than the spec sheet

Tuned profiles for each machine, nozzle and material are the difference between a good printer and a good print. Fracktory ships with them and is free.

Buying questions

Asked Before Every Purchase

Which one should I buy if I am buying my first?
Snowflake for most people, Julia if it is going into a lab or classroom where several people share it and someone needs to watch a print remotely. Both print the materials a first machine actually prints; move up when a part you need forces you to.
Do I need an enclosure?
Only if you need ABS, ASA, PC, PC-ABS or PP. Those five warp and delaminate in a draught, and an enclosure is the fix — not slower printing, not a brim. For PLA, PET-G and TPU you do not need one.
Is a made-in-India printer as good as an imported one?
On the parts that decide print quality — motion system, hotend, bed, firmware — the components are the same global ones either way. Where it differs is afterwards: a spare part is a courier away instead of an import, and support is in your time zone. That is the honest case for buying local, and it is a strong one.
Should I buy a machine or send the parts out?
If you print less than a few hours a week, a service bureau is cheaper and you get five processes instead of one. If you print most days, or your files cannot leave the building, buy the machine. We do both, so we have no reason to push you either way.
What does it cost to run?
Filament, power, nozzles and the occasional PTFE liner. Filament dominates: budget by the kilogram at the material’s price, add 15–25 % for supports and failures, and dry the hygroscopic ones so you are not paying for reprints.

Tell us what you want to print

The fastest way through all six questions is to describe the part. Tell us what it is, how big, what it has to survive and how often you will make one.